Kokopelli Trail: Day 3 - Dewey Bridge to Bitter Creek

Day three and we rise early. Our butts are aching and who knows what the day will bring. We eat breakfast, mount up and cross Dewey Bridge to take an immediate left. It doesn't take much riding to find that Larry's flat is getting so bad we have to stop and fix it (photo 1). As we cross into a wide valley the trail moves away from ridge, causing me some worry that we missed a turn (photo 2). I decide to keep going after consulting the map and it turns out we are fine. A couple of miles in you can spot some cool arches along the cliffs.

Once the Kokopelli trail turns toward ridge, the ride gets fun. After a gentle ascent to gain the ridge there is fun biking as the trail follows the ridge top. There are big bare sections of slickrock here (photo 3&4). We don't see any other bikers, but we meet up with motorcycles, ATVs, and Jeeps. At one point we experienced a surreal site as we pass a Suzuki Samari with a couple that remind us of mom and dad. After crossing a long flat we stop beneath a large boulder for a snack. Two miles from highway we crossed a fence with lots of petrified wood around. Or was it bone? Once you reach the fence and the saddle point of the ridge you are rewarded with a fun descent back to highway 128.

The trail follows the highway for a ways, then follows a dirt road out across desert. This is a long and boring ride to reach the river. Once you approach the river you are treated to an exciting descent to the river that is more fun than intense (photo 5&6). Here Larry and I took our first dip of day. From here the Kokopelli snakes a nice single track along river.

The nice single track ends too soon and then you face a long ascent leading away from the water. Here the desert scenery looks a lot like the moon. We follow the trail as it winds back down to the river and we take another dip at the Cisco landing. Here Larry decides he likes the river.

The next section of the Kokopelli includes a long and straight section as you make mileage through the desert (photo 7). Though there's no technical riding here, it is nicer than I thought it would be due to cliffs in the distance that separates you from I-70 and adds to the aesthetic. I broke the buddy rule here getting about six miles ahead of Larry. I was just cruising. Finally we reach the road to west water after a descent by ranch land.

The Kokopelli is paved again as you ride up asphalt on the West Water Road. Far up the road you return to dirt at a well marked diversion point. The 4WD road backtracks a ways making you feel like you wasted some time and energy, then winds through the pinions toward the Bitter Creek overlook (photo 8). By now the day was getting very late and Larry was getting to end of his rope. We both hadn't expected this part of the trail to be so long and we weren't certain where Steve had parked his RV. Larry called in the rescue squad.

Kari De and kids come up in my pickup and brought us pasta and beer. We found Steve's RV right at the overlook at the end of the road. Larry and Kari both were surprised he would drive it up this rough road. The next morning we discovered the outhouse that was blown apart by the wind that Steve and Ross were joking about. In the daylight we found that it was quite a nice camp spot with an awesome view.

Kokopelli Trail - Day 2: Bull Draw to Dewey

All the hard work gaining altitude on day one is rewarded on day 2. The dirt road that descends Thompson Canyon is a fun and easy downhill (photo 1) to the Hideout Canyon overlook. The views from the ridge are expansive and humbling (photo 2). We met our first group of Kokopelli travelers coming up road opposite our direction. They weren't too friendly, but we would find out why as we cruised down all the terrain they had to crank up.

The descent to Onion Creek is a bit more technical, but still not hard (photo 3). We took another dip in the creek at the Hideout Canyon campsite, but it was not as cool or full. The trail from here makes an ascent to a gap over to Fisher Valley. The road then zigs here and heads back North. After a mile you reach the first truly awesome biking challenge. The descent here is a black diamond descent that is quite fun with many obstacles that hold your attention (photo 4). The ascent on the other side required a hike-a-bike when going our direction.

At the top we met up with a FJ Cruiser rally. About 20 FJ Cruisers were about to descend the difficult section we hiked up. They gave us some water and we started the only extended uphill on this section (photo 5). At the top we met the second set of Koko travelers. We didn't converse with them too much. They were from Germany and didn't speak much English, plus they looked very tired. After seeing the very long gravel road they had to come up, we understood their consternation.

I'm glad we were descending instead. The gentle slope of the road made for a gread downhill cruise if not for the gravel. The front forks on my bike are about worn out and the rattling was notable on this washboard gravel of a road.

The Kokopelli Trail takes a left onto an ancient jeep trail just past Blue Chief Mesa. Here the biking gets technical again. Larry went first and made a nice descent hopping rocks and ratcheting his pedals. I followed with pride usurping fear, but crashed and bent my chain of all things. I was happy I had my chain tool, although I used it in an unconventional way to get my chain straight enough to continue. (photo 6)

Once you rejoin the main road the ride gets easy and fun (photo 7). We reached Dewey Bridge and our camp just as the sun was setting. I took a dip in the Colorado River. Larry lost his cookies: I guess downing an entire can of apple juice wasn't a good idea in hindsite. Steve and Ross came by with a cold Coors and we shared a joke or two over the campfire. Half way home and enjoying life!

Kokopelli Trail - Day 1: Moab to Bull Draw

We trained all summer and the day was finally here: the start of the Kokopelli Trail. My brother Larry and I planned to ride the 140 miles from Moab, Utah to Loma, Colorado in four days.

I snuck out of work Wednesday afternoon and headed for Grand Junction hoping that we could get two camp trailers set up and get to bed before it was too late. We dropped off my camp trailer at Dewey Bridge and everything was going as planned until Larry's transmission went out pulling mom's travel trailer up the steep road out of Castle Valley to Bull Draw. We left the trailer in the middle of the road and coasted in the pickup down to a spot where we could call my sister Veronica to come rescue us. She had not had much sleep, but her and James came and pulled the trailer to the campsite. We discussed whether we should still continue the ride, but Larry was determined.

The next morning I got to hold my new grand-niece for the first time. Aubrey is a beautiful little angel. Then James gave us a ride to the Slickrock trailhead. We felt pretty good even with little sleep and it was a beautiful day.

The Kokopelli trail does not necessarily include a trip around the famous Slickrock bike trail. It seemed a bit odd to instead ride our bikes up the well maintained dirt road. The slog up Sand Flats Road is not terribly exciting except for the scenery (photo 1). As you slowly crank your peddles you can see the shadow of every pebble on the road. This section involves hike-a-bike much of the time at least it did for us.

Once you reach the plateau of the Porcupine Rim you can tell you've gained altitude because of the changing vegetation. The turn off where you leave the

Sand Flats Road is very scenic with a combination of huge rocks, trees, and colors that make it seem as if it was landscaped on purpose (photo 2). Here you encounter the

first and only single track of the day. We met a group of riders who were dropped off at the top and were riding down to Moab. They were having more fun than we were.

The single track ends once you reach Porcupine Rim. From here it is a never ending ride up a four wheel drive road as you try to get to the Loop Road. A couple of deer hunters on ATV's joked that we should be riding our bikes rather than pushing them. As you look down into Castle Valley you can see the burn area from a massive fire this summer 2008 (photo 3). You do encouner an old mine in this section and a truck from long ago.

Just when your quads have had about all the pump they can stand, you finally reach the La Salle Mountain Loop Road. From here your mountain bike turns into a road bike for the remainder of the trip to Bull Draw. After all that ascent the downhill on pavement through the aspens is liberating. My GPS clocked us at speeds up to 35 mph.

Once you hit Castle Valley Road the pavement starts back uphill for the final ascent of the day. After a couple of miles the road crosses a creek, so we stopped to clean up and cool off. The long and winding road seemed to last forever (photo 4). As each pickup or car passed us we questioned our mode of transportation (photo 5).

We finally made it to camp with about a half hour of daylight left. We payed our dues with the long and gruelling ascent and we looked forward the the descent on day two. James and Veronica came up to share our campfire and a celebration brew. A fitting end to day one!

Harvard and Columbia Traverse

My third attempt at making the Harvard to Columbia traverse looked promising on 8/20. Michelle was out of town, I had the truck, and the forecast called for less than 30% chance of showers.

I set out from Denver and made it to the trail head by Saturday afternoon. Hikers returning from Harvard looked haggard and warned me of close lightning strikes. The hike in was pleasant and clear and I found a campsite in the trees.

That night I froze in my summer bag. I woke at 4:30 and started out at 5:15. I wanted to get an early start to avoid afternoon storms. Turns out it was a good plan.

The ascent of Harvard (photo 1) is a fun and easy hike. You get spectacular views of the ridge between the two peaks as you make the long climb (photo 2).


I made the summit of Harvard and started the traverse to Columbia. You have to work at it to scramble on the first half mile from the top of Harvard. If you are in it for the scrambling, I recommend that you take the harder road: it will be more fun.

Once you get on the ridge proper stay as high as you can (photos 3,4,5). There is always an escape route if you search for it that isn't harder than Class 4. The climbing here is as intense as you want it to be. There is a fair amount of exposure and you are a long way from civilization so I found it a very enjoyable experience.

The storm clouds were brewing as I reached the rabbits. My camera view screen was broken, so the picture here is accidental (photo 6)! As I passed the rabbits the skies cleared so I felt better about my ascent of Columbia. As I was going up, a mountain goat was coming down the ridge. He came within 5 feet of me. Very cool (photo 7).

On top of Columbia the clouds were building again and thunder was rumbling. In fact my hair was starting to crackle so I high-tailed it off the ridge and down. The descent is a horrible mix of dirt and scree. This was the least enjoyable part of the trip and I think we should all volunteer to improve this trail. I can't imagine trying to ascend it (photo 8).

Mount Princeton

Michelle and I decided to hit the Cottonwood Hot Springs for our anniversary. She was going to go for a massage while I climbed Harvard and Columbia. I knew the trip was going to be tight since it is a 14.5 mile hike. I would need to get up very early. Well I didn't. Plan B was an ascent of Mount Princeton.

The road up to the radio towers was narrow, but very passable in a 4wd vehicle. In fact you can find parking farther up the road if you want to cut down on the hike. Slogging up the road isn't my idea of a great time, but soon enough you get off road on the trail. As the road makes a big switchback, Mt Princeton comes into view. You might be tempted to leave the road here, but continue up the road seemingly the wrong way. Look for the steps in picture 1 for the true trail.

Once you ascend the grassy knob you come to rockier terrain. Traversing the boulders is as close to scrambling as this trail gets. Photos 2 & 3 give you a good idea of the meat of this hike. This is a popular trail with people of all abilities. There was even a lady wearing ballerina shoes.

While this was an enjoyable 14er ascent, I must get back to scrambles. The obligatory summit shot: photo 4. With my second attempt on Harvard-Columbia foiled, I thought that photo 5 properly captured my despair. Just kidding... check out the bristlecone pine behind me. The soak at Cottonwood Hot Springs was a fitting end to the hike.

Mount Sherman Glissade

After climbing Belford and Oxford the day before, Dalton and I were pretty well spent. Rather than backpack in and climb Mount Yale, we decided to climb Sherman instead.

There many good spots on the road up to Sherman to car camp. We found a spot even though it was dark and had a wonderful campfire and a couple of brews. We slept in the bed of the truck with the bedcover pulled for wind protection. It worked out pretty well.

The ascent was routine but fun. You can get a sense of it from photo 1. You follow the road then head up the ridge where it meets the left side of the photo. From there you follow the ridge to the summit in the middle of the picture. There are many kids on this route because it is an easy 14er and I'm sure they enjoy seeing all the old mining equipment on the way up (photo 2). As we approached the ridge we had to cross a large snowfield that was still in place in late July. From the ridge the hiking is a fun mix of rock and dirt. We reached the summit early and enjoyed the view of all the mountains in the region (photo 3). There were quite a few tourist from Japan at the peak... must have been a group thing.

On the descent we decided to glissade the snowfield just below the ridge crest (photo 4). I didn't bring an ice axe (big mistake) so I found a long stick to use as a brake. The angle of descent was steep and I gained quite a bit of speed. When I reached the boulder field at the bottom I was going way too fast and impacted the rocks, jumped up and ran off the rest of my momentum. My right cheek was black and blue but I made it back to the truck. Lesson learned: always bring an axe in case you find some fun snow.

Mount Oxford and Mount Belford

Every fourteener hike has its own character. For the ultimate climb I recommend Long's Peak. For pure fun you can't beat the Crestone Needle. But here's a new one. For a quintessential Colorado mountain climb, I would recommend Mount Belford and Mount Oxford. You get it all, steep hiking, beautiful views both panoramic and nature settings, wild flowers, wild life, exposure, and just the right number of fellow hikers. You can even add in some scrambling and bushwhacking as Dalton and I did.

I was surprised and pleased that Dalton agreed to go hiking with me on this late July weekend in 2008. The plan was to climb both Saturday and Sunday with a car camp in between. We decided to tackle the Belford to Oxford traverse on Saturday, then head over to Sherman on Sunday if we had enough steam.

From the Belford trailhead, you head up a steep slope for about a mile. Dalton's back was hurting, so I wasn't optimistic we were going to make it far. Steep slopes from the road are typical on Colorado hikes, and I had burned Dalton before with promises that "it will get easier up ahead."

This time it was true. Once you break over the initial slope, you are treated to a pleasant hike through a beautiful valley with majestic pine trees, columbines and other wild flowers, plus a bubbling creek (photo 1). Enjoy this part of the hike because you are in for more steep climbing once you get to the slopes of Belford (photo 2).

The long steep climb to the top of Belford is right there in front of you. The seemingly endless switchbacks will try your patience, but won't send you over the edge. At the base Dalton and I tried to make the most of it by straying off trail and engaging the rocks to the left. A little forced scrambling whetted my climbing appetite, but just barely (photo 3). There isn't much to work with, although I might recommend continuing left to some steeper stuff.

Once you summit Belford (photo 4) there is a big traverse over to Oxford. On our descent to the saddle, we seen many weary travellers returning from Oxford. Dalton's back was feeling reasonably good, so we pressed on. As we ascended Mount Oxford, we crossed the last vestigases of a snow field. On top of Oxford we enjoyed the great view of Mount Harvard, Columbia, and Missouri. From here you can see the great expanses of valleys that divide these high peaks.

On the return the faces of those weary travellers making their way back to the summit of Belford were haunting us. Dalton wanted to descend the valley that separates the two peaks rather than stay on the trail to Belford. I warned him that it could involve quite a bit of bushwacking, but secretly I wanted to get off trail myself. The initial slope into the valley is covered in scree that will test your balance. Once the steep stuff is over, it is an easier hike down the grassy slopes (photo 5).

Eventually the valley curves right and the downslope's angle increases dramatically. Rather than lose too much altitude and risk heading away from the parking lot, we decided to skirt the ridge that surrounds Peck's Peak. Plus we found some nice cliffs to scramble on our left. We made our way traversing and scrambling for a more extended time than before (photo 6). I think you could add to the climb by continuing up Peck's, but I couldn't convince Dalton to give it a try so we continued on a more level course.

After topping out on the ridge we could see the road and the parking lot. The way there didn't look easy though. The slopes are steep and the forest is thick (photo 7). Bushwhacking the bottom portion was no joy. The downed logs, loose dirt, and thick foliage was pissing Dalton off. I'm used to a fair amount of bushwacking but was ready for the hike to be over myself.

In the end, what a great day. Dalton bagged his first two fourteeners! I have now climbed mountains with both my boys and it is a memory I will always cherise. We headed down to South Park to find a place to camp and ponder a climb of Sherman.

Apex Mountain Bike Ride

My wife is in town, so I had to fore go another attempt on Castle Peak with Brian and stay close to Denver. So in prep for a Kokopelli ride, I decided to take on the Apex trail.

Located just outside of Golden, Colorado, the trail starts at the Heritage Square parking lot. Taking a right at the first trail junction leads to a slope with a perfect grade for climbing (photo 1). This is called the Pick and Sledge trail. The Apex ride up the creek bed is much rockier. Once on top you are treated to a very nice ride through the trees (photo 2).

The trail then leads around the hill and then starts a steep descent off the backside. I endoed on the way down and bruised and scraped my arm and leg (photo 3).

La Plata - Ellingwood Ridge

Dalton and I set out to climb Harvard and Columbia, but I couldn't get my Mitsubishi Eclipse up the North Cottonwood Creek Road. Why would someone try to take their sports car up there? Well, my wife had the pickup out of town that weekend.

The Ellingwood Ridge on La Plata Peak was also one of my goals so we decided to opt for it instead since the trailhead is on the highway. Since it was still early on Saturday we decided to do a little fishing at Twin Lakes. Dalton and I backpacked in about two miles in and set up camp. That afternoon we hung out by Lake Creek and relaxed. After a backpacker supper the mosquitos were so bad we decided to turn in early. We knew we needed to get an early start the next morning anyway.

We knew this trip was going to be a long day, but we were surprised in how far it felt just getting to the first big slope and boulder field. Then the boulder field seemed to go up forever (photo 2). I did find a camera tripod which was cool. By the time we arrived at Ellingwood Ridge Dalton has started cramping. We scrambled a bit up the trail, but I was worried that we would get in trouble if Dalton got worse so we turned around. We did meet up with one other pair of climbers. They both had their harnesses on and were carrying a rope. After seeing the ridge for myself I think this is a good idea (photo 3). With a snowy winter, even in mid-July the remaining snow causes one to engage harder moves.

Even though we didn't summit, it was still a great day. I was very happy that Dalton finally agreed to join me on a climb and gave it his best.

El Camino Royale and Royal Arch Climb

Dalton and I headed up to the FlatIrons above Boulder on a Wednesday evening after work to enjoy a classic climb of the El Camino Royale and the Royal Arch. This is indeed an enjoyable scramble.

We approached from the NCAR trialhead even though some books recommend the Chautauqua trailhead to get to the Royal Arch. I think that NCAR is a better way to get to the El Camino because you can leave the trail once the big rock comes into view and bushwhack up. Be sure to leave the trail before you hit the Woods Quarry.

The El Camino Royale is 800 yards of pure scrambling fun. Climbing the Royal Arch is more intense and it seems that going up is scarier than coming down. Even Dalton was deliberate in spots, but then again he was climbing in his sandals.

We arrived back at the car after dusk and headed down to Pearl Street in Boulder for some beers at BJ's.